Handy tips for restoring walls and ceilings in old buildings

Walls and ceilings can remain trouble-free for many years. More often than not moisture, through a leak or from exposure to the elements, is what eventually causes a problem. Here are some quick solutions for problems you may run into.

Most old houses have internal walls of lath (wood slats) and plaster over solid brick. Such walls tend to become "drummy" over time; the lath detaches itself and is supported loosely in pos­ition, no longer properly attached to the brick wall. Sometimes it will last for decades in this condition, but it could fall away from the wall at any time.

• If you are doing major renovations, and some lath and plaster has already fallen, it is worthwhile to strip the remaining drummy areas.
• Matching the lath or plaster may be difficult, and some experimentation may be necessary to get the texture right.
• Patching with fine-grained filler from a hardware store will not give the right texture.

Wallboard gives few problems, and renovation will involve patching any small areas of damage with a fine-grained filler and redecorating.

• Large areas can also be patched, but you may reach a stage where the replacement of a whole sheet is the quickest and even cheapest option.
• Old homes may have fibrous plaster rather than drywall (Gyproc) walls, but as long as the thickness of the sheets is comparable, you will not be able to tell the new section once the walls have been painted.
• If you are trying to remove ceramic tiles or wall coverings attached with a latex-type adhesive, it will be quicker to remove and replace the drywall sheets rather than persevering with careful removal of the tiles. Chances are the surface will be so damaged that the sheets will need to be replaced.

In some regions where there are high levels of salt in the soil, salts rising with the moisture can eventually cause crumbling of the stone or brickwork, usually below the level of the foundation's moisture barrier.

• If the problem is not too advanced, then remedies include replacing the wood section below the moisture barrier or cutting in a new moisture barrier just above ground level.
• If you decide to replace the wood, it is advisable to hire someone experienced in doing so.

A sagging ceiling is sometimes impossible to save. If the sagging is due to roof leaks, it is likely that the ceiling has stretched, which means that pushing it back into position may be impossible.

• Given the relatively low cost of wallboard, removing the old ma­terial and replacing it with new board may be the cheapest and neatest option.
• Before you start, vacuum the roof space to prevent years of accumulated dust from falling into the house.
• If the ceiling material is made of asbestos cement, make sure removal and disposal are carried out in accordance with regulatory guidelines.

Paint gives considerable protection against decay and weathering, so it is well worthwhile keeping exterior painted surfaces in good condition.

• Three-quarters of the time taken on any paint job should be spent preparing the surface.
• Modern paints are of a very high standard, but they will not adhere to dusty, flaking, loose, chalky, greasy or wet surfaces.
• Where stains are showing on ceilings and walls, use a bleed sealer (also called a stain sealer) before finishing coats. (The stains would eventually show through if water-based paints alone were used.)
• Old chalky paints must be washed down with mild detergent, dried thoroughly and prepared with a binder prior to painting.
• Areas of rusty metal need to be treated with a rust converter to arrest any further deterioration.

Keep these tips in mind and fix old walls and ceilings in no time!